Zao Cai Hong Ngan: The Tangy Foochow Noodle Dish from Sarawak
Zao Cai Hong Ngan 糟菜粉干 is a comforting and tangy noodle dish that traces its roots back to Minqing (闽清) in Fuzhou Province, China. This dish was brought to Sarawak, by Foochow immigrants who settled in the region during the early 20th century. A testament to the enduring legacy of Foochow cuisine, Zao Cai Hong Ngan showcases two of the “Three Treasures of Minqing” (闽清三宝): zao cai (糟菜), a unique preserved mustard green, and hong ngan (粉干), a type of thick rice vermicelli. Together, these ingredients create a dish that is deeply rooted in tradition and beloved by not only the Foochow community, but also all other communities in Sarawak.
At the core of Zao Cai Hong Ngan lies zao cai, a distinctive preserved mustard green that sets it apart from other preserved vegetables like suan cai (酸菜) or xian cai (咸菜). Unlike its counterparts, which rely on salt or natural fermentation, zao cai is preserved using salt and hong zao (红糟), the red rice wine lees leftover from the production of red rice wine. This preservation method gives zao cai its signature tangy flavor and a subtle winey aroma, making it a standout ingredient in Foochow cuisine.
The other star of the dish is hong ngan, a thick rice vermicelli known as fen gan 粉干 in Mandarin. With a history spanning over 800 years, this noodle is traditionally called Cha Kou Fen Gan (茶口粉干) in Fujian. However, in Sarawak, it is simply referred to as hong ngan in the Foochow dialect. While hong ngan is most commonly used in Zao Cai Hong Ngan, it can also be stir-fried to create another popular Foochow dish, Cha Hong Ngan (炒粉干), which is widely enjoyed in Sarawak, particularly in Sibu and Sarikei.
A steaming bowl of Zao Cai Hong Ngan typically features chopped zao cai, which infuses the broth with its tangy and slightly winey taste. The broth itself is rich and flavourful, often taking on a reddish or dark green hue depending on the amount of red rice wine lees used.
The dish is further elevated with the addition of handmade minced meatballs and mackeral fishballs, which are often prepared by the cooks themselves to ensure quality and authenticity. Other ingredients include tomato wedges for a touch of sweetness, eggs for richness, ginger for warmth, and black fungus for a delightful crunch. Each component is carefully balanced to create a harmonious and satisfying meal.
Zao Cai Hong Ngan is a staple in Foochow-dominated areas of Sarawak, particularly in towns like Sibu and Sarikei. It can be found in almost every kopitiam and Chinese eatery in these regions, where Foochow cuisine thrives. The dish can also be found in other parts of Sarawak, especially in eateries that specialize in Foochow dishes.
